Ancient temple of Besakih, Pura Kehem and Batu Klotek

Entrance to Besakih

The mother temple of Bali is at Besakih, where a complex of 23 temples ascends a mountain into the lofty distance. The holiest of these is Pura Penatawan Agung, rising 6 levels. The foundations of Besakih's temples date to prehistoric times--they are step pyramids. Succeeding invasions of Hindus from Java, dating back to the 14th c., annointed Besakih as Bali's mother temple.

A gate of Besakih

An upper level of Besakih

Impressive, majestic, especially as throngs of Balinese in their ritual dress ascend the black steps, women resolutely carrying loads of offerings on their heads Besakih is nonetheless an infamous visit for tourists. The guards at the parking lot are stern, then children chase you uphill demanding money. As you approach the temple itself young men practically order you to leave unless you play along with the many scams to get you to fork over rupiah. All the while women under the burdens on their heads, climbing up the many steps, smile sweetly. 

Pura Kehem

We ascended and ascended, told to take the external stairs, we skirted the temples and were able to see a bit of the ceremony inside. It was a day to celebrate farm animals, but we were spared any living sacrifices. The formidable temples are built of black volcanic rock carved into varying styles of monsters, serpents coiled around the base or flanking stairways, or great birds as railings. People sat straight-backed in the hot sun in this holiest of Balinese temples, or outside the walls, dogs sometimes fought - embodying the aggressive spirit of Besakih. Despite all the warnings to turn back, plenty of souvenir stands adorn the higher levels, plenty of women selling drinks, along with chatty priests. A young man sold musical instruments so I bought a flute of a limited range and played it walking up, delighting the women selling drinks. We ascended into a temple where young men and priests were gathered. One of them invited me to pray with him

and make a donation--some people donate 100,0000 rp, some 200,000. No thanks.

We descended among people now smiling and picnicking yet still more were climbing higher, the women straight backed and head-laden.

The smaller counterpart of Beskih is Pura Kehem, the second most

Hanuman before Batu Klotek

important in East Bali. The carving of the various monsters was the most ornate and detailed we had seen, the 43 altars had brightly painted carved wood doors and elegant monsters, handsome princes. It was built around an ancient mangrove. On our way home a pig was slaughtered by the side of the road.

Batu Klotek, gate to the sea

And there is the unassuming temple where Besakih's statues are purified. On the east coast, at the sea's edge, where smokey distant hills, like furry stupa, are wreathed in smoke beyond foaming breakers is Pura Batu Klotek, empty of even a caretaker, its volcanic stone roughly finished. At the entrance is an enormous Hanuman bearing a vial of water, on top of a turtle in a fountain of serpents. Within, the parasols are gleaming gold but decor is tattered. A gate leads to the roaring sea where people gathered and dogs roamed, couples lit incense and prayed to the horizon. It had a powerful feeling, this temple where statues from the holy Besakih are carried on foot--3 days' journey, 40 km-- to be purified in these holy waters. It imparted a profound peace to finish a beautiful day.