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Tanah Lot |
Some of the temples of Bali
are best seen at sunset--and make for a huge sunset business, with
endless parking lots for countless tour buses. We visited Tanah Lot on the east coast, but we parked beneath a
restaurant on a sea cliff. Tanah Lot is one of the sea temples founded by the famous Majahapit priest Nirartha in the 16th c., and is venerated beyond its commercialization.
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A bride below Tanah Lot |
We walked above the
high cliffs over sea-sculptured volcanic rock. Below, a bride spread
her white skirts over them. At the next cove surfers rode the waves.
Temple after temple over the beating ocean was closed, but formed
beautiful black profiles against what we had hoped would be the
setting sun, but was murky gray. Tourists swarmed over the temples.
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Tanah Lot |
Below was a cave entrance.
In the near darkness I gave the equivalent of one cent for my
blessing. I drank holy water and a priest tucked a frangipani
blossom behind one ear, as another smeared a circle of cooked rice on
the forehead and the neck. In another cave a donation was required
to see a captive snake but Jacques took its picture anyway. We
climbed up along the final cliff which led to souvenir
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Blessing at Tanah Lot |
stands and
bright eyed lewaks who sniffed us, crawled up our arms, tried to nip
my nose. They are a kind of mongoose that eats coffee beans, very
selectively, so their poop contains only the very best coffee beans,
and is used to make an expensive coffee. We played with another of
the beautiful fruit bats. We walked back over the darkened crashing
sea while hoards of tourists sat down to dine.
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Tame fruit bat |
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An Uluwatu monkey |
Jacques visited the other
very famous sunset temple in the south, at Uluwatu, also credited to Nirartha, but it was originally founded in the 11th c. by the Javanese priest Empu Kuturan. Uluwatu is also famous for its monkeys. We had enjoyed
the lovely soft monkeys of the Monkey Forest in the mountains, but at Uluwatu the monkeys are infamous! Jacques had carefully strapped his
glasses to his head, but no sooner had he started the walk above the
sea-beaten cliffs than a monkey leaped on his head and broke off the
glasses!
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Setting of Uluwatu |
But Jacques was lucky. One of the many women who carry
peanuts and bananas to bribe the monkeys got Jacques' monkey to throw
down the glasses---on the other side of a deep ravine! Another lady
got the glasses before another monkey did. Other tourists watched
their glasses being broken into bits, girls lost their
flip-flops to
monkeys even as they were walking, and other tourists endured being
jumped upon for the possibility of a monkey's good fun!
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